The cosmetic sector is no exception in today’s world, where each industry strives hard to achieve eco-friendly sustainable alternatives. One latest trend gaining momentum concerning skincare is the use of enzymes which are natural biocatalysts, offering a gentler approach to beauty routines. Today several enzymes are used in skin care products having benefits like deep cleansing, anti-aging, exfoliation, moisturizing, and antioxidant effects.
Exfoliation has traditionally relied on abrasive approaches, such as the use of extremely harsh chemicals (acidic formulas with less than pH 5) and mechanical methods (microbead facial scrubs, abrasive sponges, and crushed apricot kernels). Exfoliation is one of the most important steps in most popular skincare routines (Korean 10-step skincare routine), and it involves the removal of dead skin cells to achieve a smoother and more vibrant complexion.
Enzymatic peels are becoming a favorite due to their mild and efficient method. Enzymes target dead cells that aid in maintaining the skin’s microbiome, leading to healthier skin. Moreover, there is a growing trend of formulating enzyme-based products to complement other natural ingredients; thereby, amplifying their skin-rejuvenating benefits [1].
Different enzymes are used for exfoliation because they effectively break down protein in dead skin cells. Papain (from papaya), bromelain (from pineapple), and ficain (from fig tree) are highly specific in their action and target only unwanted cells, leaving healthy surrounding tissues untouched. This property makes them suitable for sensitive skin and conditions like hyperpigmentation, acne, and rough scars. Beyond exfoliation, enzymes are finding their application.
Diacylglycerol acetyltransferase-1 enzyme increases the effectiveness of retinoic acid and improves the skin’s appearance. It has Vitamin A that promotes the skin’s normal process of generating new skin cells and shedding old ones. This lessens the wrinkles and helps to smooth the skin. By enhancing the effect of retinoic acid DGAT-1 helps make skin appear younger and fresher and makes it beneficial in skin care products.
“In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous” – Aristotle
Enzymes Lysyl hydroxylase and Prolyl hydroxylase help produce collagen, a protein that maintains the skin’s strength and firmness. Collagen supports the skin elasticity and firmness by acting as a scaffold. These two enzymes contribute to developing strong collagen by adding special chemical groups to the amino acids lysine and proline in the collagen structure. This makes the collagen fibers solid and prevents wrinkles and skin drooping. These enzymes work together with Vitamin C and enable them to function properly. When Vitamin C levels are low the body produces less collagen which weakens the skin and increases the chance of wrinkles [2].
Harnessing the power of fruits, honey, and botanicals for a radiant complexion
That’s why many anti-aging products include Vitamin C and ingredients that boost collagen to make skin active and fresh. The peroxidases include Horseradish peroxidase and Lactoperoxidase are other classes of enzymes crucial to the cosmetics industry. They employ to preserve the freshness of skincare products although they have no direct effect on the skin. Bacteria cannot survive in the product where the peroxidases have consumed the oxygen.
These enzymes keep the chemicals in skincare products from degrading and losing their efficacy without oxygen. By doing this the products last longer without using artificial preservatives which many consumers want to avoid. Peroxidases are particularly helpful in natural skincare products since they offer a natural means to preserve and ensure the product’s continued safety and efficacy.
Additionally, they help to prevent the oxidation of sensitive ingredients like vitamins and antioxidants extending the shelf life and ensuring optimal performance. The application of these enzymes reflects the continued trend to use natural and biologically active chemicals to improve product performance and satisfy customers for safe, eco-friendly, and scientifically advanced skin care products [3].
The potential for these bioactive compounds is expected to expand as research into enzymatic function advances possibly offering even more precise and potent skincare solutions.
“Nature gives you the face you have at twenty, it is up to you to merit the face you have at fifty” – Coco Chanel
REFERENCES:
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- Kede MPV, Sabatovich O. Dermatologia estética. Dermatol Estética 2004. 771–771 p.
- Kanitakis J. Anatomy, histology and immunohistochemistry of normal human skin. Eur J Dermatol. 2002;12(4):390–9; quiz 400–1.
- Salo AM, Myllyharju J. Prolyl and lysyl hydroxylases in collagen synthesis. Exp Dermatol. 2020;29(9):1107-1115. doi:10.1111/exd.14197. Prolyl and lysyl hydroxylases in collagen synthesis – Salo – 2021 – Experimental Dermatology – Wiley Online Library
- Everything You Need to Know About Enzymes In Cosmetology
- Gensler, H., & Magdaleno, S. (2015). DGAT1, Retinoic Acid, and Skin Cell Regeneration. Cosmetic Dermatology Journal.
Note: Dr. Ruqyya Khalid (Assistant Professor, Department of Biochemistry, Kinnaird College for Women, Lahore) is the main author of this article. Fatima Farhan and Moman Mumtaz are co-authors.
Similar article: Beauty at What Cost?— Impacts of Cosmetic Ingredients on the Environment and Our Health
Dr. Ruqyya Khalid is an Assistant Professor at the Department of Biochemistry, Kinnaird College for Women, Lahore.
